From

GRIT,

Emerges A

Classic,

French

Croissant

MEET SUSAN LIMB, THE PASTRY CHEF BEHIND
PRALINE BAKERY’S NEWEST LOCATION
AT THE WHARF IN WASHINGTON, D.C.

By MEGAN RUMMLER | OCT. 23, 2018

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Most travelers toss a toothbrush and some clothes in their suitcase before a flight, but not Susan Limb. Limb packs a 5-pound, frozen block of croissant dough.

Launching off the success of her artisan bakeries in Maryland and Virginia, Limb and her partners are opening a third Praline Bakery retail spot at The Wharf in the nation’s capital.

“Usually airplane cargo holds are very cold and it takes upwards of six to seven hours for frozen croissant dough to defrost," says Limb naturally, as if this information is common knowledge amongst fellow travelers.

A quick Google search of “airplane cargo temperature" confirms that an average Boeing 767 keeps its baggage hold around 7 degrees Celsius or 44.6 degrees Fahrenheit—which is, in fact, pretty cold.

Recalling the decades-old memory, Limb says the idea to travel with frozen dough was born simply out of a desire to feed her family. While logical, the plan didn’t factor in any flight delays, which is precisely what happened.

“My flight to California was only supposed to be five or six hours. The idea was to let the dough rise in-flight, then cut, shape, proof and bake when I arrived," says Limb.

Her flight was delayed by 12 hours.

“When I landed, the first thing I did was open my suitcase. I can still picture it now—a huge dough poof and the smell, well, let’s just say it was yeasty," says Limb chuckling.

Although a messy ordeal, Limb’s clever and deft multi-tasking abilities landed her a coveted spot on the White House kitchen pastry team staff, during both Bush and Clinton administrations.

“You have to be consistent in the kitchen, otherwise, there’s no point," says Limb, unapologetically.

Fortitude, Baking Beneath

Sitting in Praline Bakery Mosaic, Limb is unassuming, quiet and down-to-earth. She is authentic with an easygoing laugh. Her relaxed vibes are distinctly Californian, which is fitting for this Los Angeles native.

And yet, unless meticulous attention is paid to what Limb says, it’s all too easy to miss her intense focus and drive that run beneath the laid-back exterior.

When describing herself as a pastry chef, Limb’s tone and body language noticeably shift. She says one word, delivered with firm eye contact: demanding.

“I want to make sure everything is done perfectly. You have to be consistent in the kitchen, otherwise, there’s no point," says Limb, unapologetically.

Limb is motivated and driven by a level of determination, precision and control some may never realize, which is inseparable from her intensity and passion to nurture.

“She always wants to make sure everyone is taken care of," says Hannah Choi, in a telephone interview from Pyeongtaek, South Korea. Choi is Limb’s identical twin sister—older by one minute.

“I think we’re similar but just in different industries," says Choi. As it turns out both are in nurturing fields, food and education.

To Feed Is To Nurture

Originally intending to pursue medical school, Limb double-majored in biological sciences and history but later fell into what would become her lifelong passion for professional pastry arts.

Twenty years ago Limb walked into L’Academie de Cuisine, one of the nation’s former top culinary schools. Her goal—to become a better cook, not pastry chef.

While attempting to make a classic French croissant, Limb realized that mastering the process takes an extreme amount of patience, persistence and fortitude. For her, wielding all three while simultaneously feeding someone is akin to magic. She was hooked.

“I always ask myself, is this the best we can make it? Would I be proud to give this to my family? That is my bar,” says Limb speaking emphatically.

Today, Limb says she is grateful to have walked through those doors because it was only when she was elbow deep in flour, butter and dough that her world changed forever.

“I always ask myself, is this the best we can make it? That is my bar,” says Limb speaking emphatically.

New Horizons

Amidst construction, Limb pauses to give a tour. Above the noise she states the store is expected to open by November.

Praline at The Wharf, will be an approximately 2,222 square-foot retail bakery, and will sit smack in the center of Washington, D.C.’s newest $2.5 billion waterfront development.

“Our main entrances will be from 7th Street and the Canopy Hotel lobby," says Limb, as she dodges scaffolding on site.

The new store will feature beloved customer favorites such as Parisian macaroons, croissants, cookies and breakfast pastries but will also highlight new items.

“I’m excited—it’s like the new hip place. I’m thinking about doing fun stuff like maybe ‘bingsu,’ an Asian snow cream dessert. It’s like flaked milk," says Limb, with a wide smile on her face.

Secret Ingredient

Aside from The Wharf’s popularity, the restaurant business is widely acknowledged to be a tough industry.  With over two-dozen eateries already operating at The Wharf, how will Praline’s new retail bakery standout?

“I believe that variety and competition are helpful. If you differentiate enough, there’s room for everybody," says Limb.

This is the moment when paying close attention to what Limb says matters.

Differentiation is the keyword, but what exactly does this mean?

Limb asserts that Praline Bakery’s 12-year run is due to their exactingly high standards in quality and ingredients.

“Flavor and consistency are king," says Limb.

This simple yet efficient statement reveals her secret ingredient—an obsession with quality control.

“What I love and admire about Susan is that she’s not all talk—she’s action,” says Patricia Dunne, a fellow pastry chef and Limb’s long-time friend. Dunne adds in jest, “Ask anybody—pastry chefs are control freaks, it’s a common theme."

“Flavor and consistency are king," says Limb.

Observing A Croissant Rise

Upon concluding the interview, Limb whimsically answers the question of which pastry she identifies with most.

“If I were a pastry, I’d be a croissant," says Limb, explaining that it’s a pastry everybody likes, has some character and is not overwhelming.

What Limb perhaps unknowingly omits is that, like her, croissants are intricately layered and carefully constructed, rising only to flaky perfection when time and temperature are flawlessly mastered.

The tour ends and Limb exits flashing her pink Praline t-shirt, matching pink sneakers and a coordinating pink Apple watch.

Megan Rummler is the founder of A|DECIBEL Media.